we went to the beach today. f f f f f f f f finally. it was about a 50 minute drive to taraunga, then to mt manganui (which is probably the wrong spelling, but whatevah.) it was just sweet to leave the base further than matamata. i haven't seen the ocean since me'n marc ventured to vancouver last last february. so it was nice... and the WAVES oh the waves.. they were magnificent. so i surfed. i got up easy enough, rode the wave 3 solid times, nose dived once (cuz i sat way to far up on the board) and got exhausted real fast, and now i'm sporting nipple chaffing with a screamingly painful shower time cuz of board rash. next time i'm going to wear a shirt. but i was super happy with gettin up and balancing with relative ease (snowboarding really does help). i just have to get better at paddling out and reading the waves better.. its exhausting getting out beyond the breaks and then getting no waves then getting one all the way in then having to do it all again... but it was so good. i'm happy that i have actually surfed a teensy bit now. now weekends will be getting good enough to turn, find the good waves, and build muscle so i don't drown. didn't get much sunburn, just a lot of salt water rash and burning eyes and sore throat. its so freaking salty. yucks. but showers and using rins holland baby soap is nice. can't wait to venture out into NZ to good beaches.. jacob is a solid teacher. baptism by fire! i didn't get burned. we also went hiking and i took a ton of pics. including lukas cliff diving. next time i'll join... i'm gonna go call an wake up my parents. they can handle it.
open mike night tonight. i'm gonna draw drews tattoo into completion. then ponder chris's. and liz's. and draw mine. and enjoy my bros'n sis's musical talents.
3.07.2009
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